VATS Bypass

See this post for background:  Keys

I cut the 2 white wires on the steering column side of the connector and added the resistor.

To protect this little thing it was then liberally wrapped with heat shrink tubing, tape, and flex conduit.  This is the connector and resistor installed back in vehicle but before it was tucked up with the other dash wires.  Final positioning can be seen here.

Dash Wires

Treasure hunt - try to find all items listed here.  Hint: use red arrows.

1. Yellow connector for air bag - DO NOT DISCONNECT!
2. Black connector with purple and white wires on one side and white on other.  White wires go up the steering column to key cylinder for VATS security system.  White wires will be cut and connected to a resistor as per the 'VATS Bypass'.
3. Yellow wire with 2 butt splices and a twisted/taped splice.
4. Old blue wire tap on red wire
5. Old taped wire tap on red wire
6. Old unprotected wire tap on pink wire.  This has less then half the wristbands still intact.
7. Old taped wire tap on pink wire.
8. Old taped wire tap on white wire.
9. Old unused ground screw.

I think most of these are from previous radio and/or alarm installs.  Going to try and knock all these out next (tomorrow?).

4/16/15 Update:
All tape was removed.  Some taps were soldered and did not nick the conductor.  These were coated with 'liquid tape' and wrapped with real tape.  Other taps were replace with butt splice because conductors were cut.  Undersized wire was replaced.

Horn

This wire runs up the steering column to the steering wheel horn button.  It was already damaged.  The horn button or the wire to it is not working.  If I jump this wire to ground, it activates the horn relay and the horns sound.  This wire will be routed to a push button on the dash then grounded to dash frame.

4/16/15 Update:
Horn button installed in dash where previous owner had cut hole for something.

Blue wire was run to button in dash then to ground.

Doors

Both doors have been re-worked:

• new inner and outer felts around window
• new gasket around door
• lubed window mechanism
• lubed lock/latch

Drivers door cannot be locked with key.  Rest of locks and latches work as normal.

Coolant Temp Sensor and Fuel Lines

After

Before

Found another disconnected sensor.  It is was the temp sensor on the front of the drivers side head with a single wire going to it.  Sensor is right arrow in 'before' pic.  This one just runs the gauge on the dash.  It would not have any effect on the drivability.  The sensor connection tab was painted and bent.  I cleaned and straightened it.  Gauge is now working.

Also noticed a disconnected clamp on the fuel lines (upper left arrow).  Further research determined it is function is to limit vibration damage to the metal fuel lines.  The bracket to hold it is missing - probably for some time.  One is on order from eBay.  For now, I wired it up with 12awg household wire.

Wiring harness was also under protected and a little too close to the exhaust manifold (lower left arrow).  I put some flex conduit over to for abrasion protection and wired it back - away from manifold - sort of visible in after pic.

4/14/15 Update:
Fuel line bracket arrived and was installed.

Fuel Line bracket installed.

More Free Stuff

Went to yard again for more free miscellaneous fasteners.

The trim clips were so brittle they broke when I tried to use them.

IAT - Intake Air Temperature sensor

Reviewing the TunerPro RT logs, I noticed the MAT (Manifold Air Temp) was reporting >200F temps - that seemed too high.  This sensor is in the air filter canister and is commonly referred to as the IAT - Intake Air Temp sensor.  Found this chart to test it.  The error in resistance seemed to line up with the high temps in the logs.  Room temp, ~80 degrees, had 600-1200 ohms resistance which would place it too high in the temp chart.  New sensor was ordered for ~$21.

I had trouble getting a decent reading with my free Harbor Freight multi meter so we'll see if it really is the sensor.  It looked like an original.  Could also be faulty wiring.  That will take 2 people to test and a better meter...