Keys

Keys can be made for $65 at the dealership - need title/registration and owner with driver's license.

There is a reference to a 'VATS bypass' in the forums.  Did a quick read of the VATS bypass and it has you cutting wires and inserting a resistor to mimic the key resistor.  Details are below.  So it does not really replace the VATS module that decides to allow the car to start.  It just replaces key's resistor with a permanently installed resistor under the dash.  It only bypasses the wiring in the steering column and ignition.  It would allow a non VATS key to be used.

Lots of key blanks for sale on eBay for $7-$20.  Search for 'VATS Key'.  This seller below says to go to dealer with key and they can tell you which of the 15 VATS key codes it is. - or measure the resistance yourself in ohms and look it up in their chart.  Current key measures 2400 ohms which is a VATS code #8.  It gets more expensive when you lose the key and have to put in an ignition switch.

http://www.vatskey.com    (has video with info and measuring instructions)
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Buick-Cadillac-Chevrolet-Pontiac-OEM-Vats-Key-Secondary-H-Key-Blank-Blanks-/191536037384?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c986ffe08&vxp=mtr

VATS Bypass procedure

VATS Bypass p1

VATS Bypass p2

Hood Release

Dealers list the hood release cable (part# 10189314) as $30

Ordered Hood Release cable from Chev dealer for $33.53 they responded and said it is discontinued.

Ordered from eBay for $46.95.

Fuel Pump Access 'Door'

Looking for a before pic.

No more exhaust into the cabin!

Trimmed and rolled edges.

Trimmed and rolled edges.

Used duct sealing mastic between sign and body metal hoping to get better seal and avoid rattles.

Tape is also a duct sealing tape with a butyl rubber adhesive.  The tape might tear but the adhesive does not let go.

SES Light on - Error codes 33,34,42,43

Error codes from TunerPro on 3/25:

33 MAP High

34 MAP Low

42 EST Monitor

43 Knock Sensor

Since I still do not have enough confidence in my configuration of TunerPro I can cross check the codes by using a jumper wire at the diagnostic port to tell me the actual codes.  If they match what TunerPro is telling me I will have more confidence in it.  

austinthirdgen.org has good instructions and code definitions here:

  http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=27#31LMFI

Checked codes with jumper as per instructions.  They matched above list.  
I need to research the 12.
12
33
34
42
43

Reset codes by disconnecting battery for 30 seconds 
Re-checked with jumper:  only 43
Re-scan w/TunerPro: only 43

See Knock sensor entry...

TunerPro RT

I am using TunerPro RT (tunerpro.net) to scan the car's ECM.

Tried connecting old Windows 2000 laptop to car yesterday to see if I could get the error codes.  This failed for a couple reasons:

1. TunerPro RT version 4 is an outdated version of the software.  Cannot go to version 5 because it will not run on Windows 2000 - needs at least XP SP3.
2. Configuration files (.ads, .bin, .xdf) were either outdated or incorrect
3. Laptop will not run on battery.  Had to stay parked and plugged into extension cord.
4. It was raining.  Had to run car half in/half out of garage.
5. After a few minutes of idling the car exhaust fumes from fuel pump access hole were a bit too much.

Today was spent on couch:

1. Researched and acquired latest config files
2. Upgraded VMWare Fusion virtual machine software on my Macbook Air.  The old version I had been using does not run on Yosemite.  This allows me to run XP Pro on my Mac.
3. Upgraded TunerPro RT to latest version.
4. Learned where to look in the software for error codes

I am now ready to connect my mac to the car.

Version 5 seems to be running and configured properly for the Camaro.

As this pic shows, the case has the common 01227730/AZTY ECM.

Electrical - Relays and Grounds - Removing twisted and taped splices

These items were addressed today (and yesterday):

1. Repaired last splice for wires going to relays.
2. Test fired engine and idled for a while.
3. Replaced main ground strap from pass. side exhaust manifold to firewall.  It was still just twisted together.
4. Repaired (butt splice) ground from relays to drivers side firewall. 
5. Terminated (yellow terminal ring on drivers side firewall) and attached ground from wire harness to firewall that was not connected.  This was connected previously, prior to engine removal.  This ground might also need attention where it goes into the harness but I could not get at it.  It would have been easy to repair when the engine was out.



EGR Valve Connector:
Plastic is missing at bottom where spades go into connector.

6. Repaired (butt splice/terminal ring) ground wire from passenger side exhaust manifold to engine harness.  This ground might also need attention where it goes into the harness but I could not get at it.  Again, it would have been easy to repair when the engine was out.



EGR Valve Connector:
 Retaining clip is broken 

7. Four wires on EGR valve connector are still just twisted and taped.  Repairing this was deferred because the connector is in such poor condition.  It should be replaced.  It can be purchased from rockauto.com for ~$30.
8. Properly mounted relays on drivers firewall.  They were laying on fender well and were susceptible to wear from vibration.
9. Engine harness was resting on exhaust manifolds on both sides of engine.  This would, at best, cause a wiring failure, at worst, a fire.  I supported the harness on the passenger side with a zip tie to the ignition coil mounting bracket.  Then I saw temp rating on zip tie package.  Didn't think it was high enough so found 12AWG house wire roll and used to support the harness.  Under hood temps can get near 400 deg F.  On the drivers side I used one of the wiper motor mounts to support the harness with 12AWG wire.  This should minimize wear from vibration and heat.
10. Fired it up and connected TunerPro RT  software (version 4 on old laptop) to car to try and monitor engine - hoping to get reason for 'Service Engine Soon' light.  Couldn't monitor but something wasn't quite right.  Need to do more research.  More on this later.  
11. Fed and watered the chickens (Friday and Saturday).